field observations of swash zone infragravity motions and beach cusp evolution
冲击区次重力波运动和海滩尖顶演变的现场观测
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A beach cusp existing for a long term under normal wave conditions was measured repeatedly.
以观测到的一个在较长时间存在的滩角为研究对象,研究了常浪条件下滩角的变化过程.
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Numerical simulation of the beach cusp topography based on the self-organized theory
基于自组织机制理论的滩角地形数值模拟
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